Overwintering Citronella Plants: Cold-Hardy Survival Tips for Year-Round Growth

Overwintering your citronella plant can survive winter with the right prep—no tropical greenhouse needed. 🌿 I’ve overwintered mine for three years now, and the key is protecting the roots while giving the plant just enough light to stay alive. The first step is checking your zone: if you’re in Zone 8 or warmer, you might get away with minimal prep, but colder zones need extra care.

Start by moving potted plants to a sheltered spot before the first frost, like a garage or covered patio. For in-ground plants, mound 6-8 inches of mulch around the base to insulate roots.

Avoid heavy watering—citronella hates soggy soil in winter—and trim back any dead foliage to reduce stress. The goal is dormancy, not growth, so don’t fertilize.

By spring, you’ll see fresh green shoots pushing through the mulch or emerging from pots, signaling the plant’s ready to bloom again. A little extra water and a light trim to shape it up is all it needs to bounce back.

If you notice yellowing leaves, it’s usually just winter stress—no need to panic.

This method works for both container and in-ground plants, and it’s foolproof once you get the hang of it. The payoff? A citronella plant that comes back stronger every year, ready to repel mosquitoes by summer. Let’s get yours through winter safely!

What you need

Step-by-Step instructions for overwintering citronella plants

Here’s the foolproof method I’ve used for years to keep my citronella thriving through winter—no fancy equipment needed.

Start by giving your citronella a good trim. Cut back the stems by about one-third to remove any dead or yellowing foliage. This helps the plant focus its energy on root health rather than maintaining unnecessary growth. Use clean, sharp pruners to avoid damaging the stems, and dispose of the clippings in the trash—not the compost—to prevent fungal spread.

Real talk: Don’t skip this step. A heavily pruned plant recovers faster in spring, and you’ll avoid surprises like mold or pests lurking in dead leaves. After pruning, give the plant a final watering to ensure the roots are hydrated before dormancy begins.

Citronella plants can’t handle freezing temperatures, so act before the first frost hits. Move the pot to a sheltered spot like a garage, basement, or covered porch where temperatures stay above 40°F. If you’re in a colder climate, consider wrapping the pot in bubble wrap or insulating it with a thick layer of mulch to retain warmth.

I know it seems counterintuitive to move plants indoors, but citronella needs a cool, dark spot—not bright light or warmth. Too much light or heat will trick the plant into growing when it should be resting, weakening it for spring. Place it near an unheated window or in a basement corner where it’s consistently cool.

Once your citronella is in its winter spot, cut back on watering dramatically. The goal is to keep the soil slightly moist but not soggy—water only when the top 1-2 inches of soil feel dry to the touch. Overwatering in dormancy leads to root rot, and you’ll know it’s time to water when the soil pulls away from the pot edges.

Here’s the thing—citronella plants are drought-tolerant, but they’re not desert plants. Check the soil every 2-3 weeks and adjust as needed. If the pot feels light when lifted, it’s time to water. A moisture meter helps, but even without one, your fingers are reliable.

When daytime temperatures consistently stay above 50°F and nighttime lows don’t drop below 45°F, it’s time to wake your citronella from dormancy. Move the pot back to its outdoor location, gradually reintroducing it to sunlight over 7-10 days to avoid shock. Start with partial sun and slowly increase exposure to full sun.

After moving it outside, water thoroughly to rehydrate the roots, then resume regular care. You’ll see new growth within 2-3 weeks—that’s your signal everything worked. Fertilize lightly with a balanced, water-soluble fertilizer once the plant shows signs of active growth.

Once your citronella has put out fresh new growth, give it a light pruning to shape it and encourage bushier foliage. Remove any stems that look weak or leggy, cutting just above a leaf node. This encourages the plant to branch out and grow fuller, which means more of that mosquito-repelling scent.

Feed the plant with a balanced fertilizer (10-10-10) diluted to half strength to avoid burning the roots. I like to fertilize every 4-6 weeks during the growing season, but hold off until you see at least 4-6 inches of new growth. Over-fertilizing in early spring can stress the plant just as it’s waking up.

Tips & tricks for overwintering citronella plants

These simple strategies will help your citronella survive winter like a pro—no green thumb required.

Pruning Precision: When you trim those stems by one-third in Step 1, focus on removing only the dead or yellowing leaves—not the healthy green growth. I learned this the hard way after accidentally pruning too much and weakening my plant. Leave at least 6-8 inches of healthy stems to ensure the plant has enough energy reserves for spring growth.

Temperature Watch: The 40°F threshold in Step 2 is critical—citronella can't handle freezing, but it also won't thrive above 50°F during dormancy. If your garage or basement fluctuates, consider adding a small thermometer near the plant. I keep mine in a corner where temps stay steady around 45°F, which is perfect for dormancy without encouraging growth.

Soil Check Hack: For Step 3's moisture check, I use the "finger test" but with a twist: stick your finger about 1 inch deep into the soil. If it comes out clean with just a few crumbs, it's time to water. If you feel moisture, wait another week. This prevents both underwatering and the dreaded root rot that comes from overwatering during dormancy.

Spring Transition Tip: When you move your plant back outside in Step 4, don't rush the sun exposure. I start with just 2-3 hours of morning sun for the first 3 days, then gradually add more. This slow acclimation prevents sunburn on the tender new growth that's just starting to emerge.

Frequently asked questions

When is the best time to start overwintering my citronella plant?

Start preparing your citronella for winter before the first frost hits—typically in late fall (October–November in most climates). If you’re moving it indoors, do so gradually over 1–2 weeks to avoid shocking the plant. For container plants, prune back foliage and reduce watering as temperatures drop below 50°F (10°C).

Can I leave my citronella plant outside all winter, or do I need to bring it inside?

Citronella plants (Cymbopogon nardus) are tropical and cannot survive freezing temperatures (below 30°F/-1°C). If you live in a cold climate (USDA zones 8–11), move potted plants indoors to a bright, cool spot (50–60°F/10–15°C). For in-ground plants, mulch heavily and cover with frost cloth—but expect dieback unless you’re in zone 10+.

What’s the best way to overwinter a potted citronella plant indoors?

Place your plant near a south-facing window or under grow lights for 6–8 hours of light daily. Reduce watering to just keep soil slightly moist (overwatering leads to root rot). Watch for pests like spider mites—spray leaves with neem oil if needed. Resume normal care in spring when temperatures warm.

Can I overwinter citronella by cutting and storing the stems?

Yes! If your plant is struggling, you can propagate from cuttings. Trim healthy stems (4–6 inches long), remove lower leaves, and place them in water or moist perlite. Keep in bright, indirect light until roots form (4–6 weeks). Transplant in spring—though regrowth may be slower than overwintering the whole plant.

My citronella plant looks sad after overwintering—what went wrong?

Common issues include leggy growth (lack of light), yellow leaves (overwatering), or pests (dry indoor air). Fix it by:

• Moving the plant closer to light.
• Watering only when the top inch of soil is dry.
• Wiping leaves with soapy water to deter pests.

Wrapping up and next steps

Overwintering your citronella plant is totally doable with the right prep—whether you’re bringing it indoors or protecting it outside! 🌱 With patience and a few simple steps, you’ll keep those fragrant blooms thriving year after year. Now’s the time to act: assess your plant’s needs, gather supplies, and start your overwintering plan before the first frost. Your citrusy sanctuary won’t take a break—it’ll just be waiting for warmer days!

• Next step: Pick your overwintering method (indoor pots, greenhouse, or cold frames) and mark your calendar for early spring repotting.
• Pro tip: Snap a photo of your plant’s current state to track its growth come spring!